MUKTESHWAR: A Peaceful Retreat

The picturesque town of Mukteshwar is a pristine getaway nestled in the lap of the Kumaon Himalayas. Located in the Nainital district (Uttarakhand), it sits at an elevation of about 7500 feet. Being at this advantageous height Mukteshwar is never really warm. The summer temperature reaches a maximum of 27^oC. However, in winter the mercury drops considerably causing heavy snowfall.

If you are planning to visit Mukteshwar, you may consider the following options:

You may take a train to Kathgodam, which is the nearest railway station. It is connected to the hilltop by regular taxi service. You can get the cabs on hire from the railway station itself. It is also convenient if your hotel provides a station pick up and drop service.

If you are planning to fly, then Pantnagar (100 kms away from Mukteshwar) is the nearest airport. Air India operates an afternoon flight from Delhi and it takes about an hour to reach your destination.  The airport has facilities of pre-paid taxis.

Mukteshwar is also well connected by road transport. Neighbouring cities are connected by state government run buses. Luxury coaches also ply from Delhi which connects up to Kathgodam, from where you may get a taxi.

We visited Mukteshwar in late summer. The weather was perfect and the trees brimming with flowers and fruit were a treat to our senses. We checked in at the Government Tourist Rest House. It is a highly recommended stay because of its pocket friendliness as well as the fantastic view of the sunset that only this strategically placed accommodation offers. However, because of its continuous rush for bookings, it is advisable to book it before hand, in case this is your choice. Otherwise, accommodations of the likes of Cottage Nirvana, Mukteshwar Himalayan Resort, Green Oak Resort, Krishna Orchard etc. also provide a comfortable stay.

The first evening was spent enjoying the privilege of a spectacular sunset from the comfort of our balcony. Wrapped in a light shawl we watched mesmerised as the golden ball of fire dipped below the conifer and deodar lined horizon, splashing the sky with its golden red aura. And then suddenly there was darkness and a sharp fall in the temperature. As if on cue the crickets took over with regained fury their orchestra, which continued for the rest of the night. Unlike bustling hill stations there were no “dining-out” options. Homely dinners were served on a buffet basis. Post dinner we took the opportunity of strolling up and down the steep drive to our guest house as the calorie burning agenda.

The best thing about waking up in a hill station is the twitter of birds that substitute the irritable ring of the alarm clock. If you are an early bird you would love see the sunrise from the lovely little garden on the other side of the bungalow. A roughly cut stairway provides a short cut to the garden. The garden itself is perfectly manicured, with bushes of colourful flowers very tastefully planted. Small birds of various colours busy themselves playing in the foliage.

The sight that greets you from this vantage point is profiles after profiles of mountain slopes, clad in rich green. Thankfully the slopes have not yet been deforested and the morning sun presents them in lovely shades of green. The azure sky above and the wild fruit trees were bearing flowers and fruits that give out a heady smell is sure to make you fall in love with this place. If you are overworked and tired, I must confess this stressbuster is something you can savour for hours on end.

For your local sightseeing, the agenda would include the Mukteshwar Temple and Chauli ki Jali.

The famous Mukteshwar temple is located in the Indian Veterinary Research Institute’s campus. The temple is about 350 years old and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. There is a white marble ShivaLinga. Other deities worshipped here are Lords Brahma, Vishnu, Ganesha, Bajrangbali and Parvati. Mukteshwar in fact, gets its name from this Mukteshwar Dham itself.  If your interest is stimulated by the local avifauna, the forested area near this place is a haven for birds with a list of species like barbets, woodpeckers and thrush.

Chauli ki Jali is encountered on your way back from the temple. This is a place of bizarre rock formations that jut out at extraordinary angles over the steep cliff. The area is very popular with tourists. The common sight is that of shutterbugs busy climbing the rock projections trying to hold themselves in position for that perfect shot. The major footfall has also encouraged other activities like arrow shooting and whizzing down from one mountain slope to another one below being tied to a cable of sorts. Rappelling is also an option if you are trained and adventurous enough. Here I must state a personal experience.

 I opted for the cabling down the slope. True to the Indian culture, after some heckling the price was fixed at Rs.500. There were two men operating the same. One straddled me in an indigenous but trustworthy gear. He put a helmet over my head, and pushed me forward with the invaluable advice of “Rassi ko Pakde Rehna” . The other I had the good fortune of meeting at the other end of the cable. Though the ride is not long but it gives an amazing view of the green forested valley as one slides over it. Much to my awe I loved the sight of the solitary eagle that was actually flying below me. The vast green stretch reminded me of Corbett’s “Man eaters of Kumaon”. It must have been these dense slopes of Mukteshwar where the magnificent beast roamed before meeting with its fate.

After this thrilling experience one has to climb back up the mountain to where the hub of activities is. It is here that I spotted a uniquely beautiful lattice of rock. On enquiry the man at the other end of the cable informed (in a voice drenched with reverence) that it was THE most important reason for the existence of Chauli ki Jali. It is a sacred place which when touched by women, unable to have children, with due reverence, are blessed with offspring by the God of Fertility. I moved on after gathering this piece of solid information, thanking him graciously and climbed up the steep slopes full of exhilaration.

This beautiful sleepy town does not have much excitement to offer. However, if you are planning to escape to an idyllic weekend amidst silence broken by the rustle of the deodar as the wind passes through it, or even waking up to the call of the thrush to view that magnificent sunrise while sipping on a steaming hot cup of cinnamon tea, then this somnolent getaway is just tailor made for you.

OF BIRTH AND RE BIRTH

The children were not created out of love. They would be born out of necessity. They would be born because of her selfishness. The thoughts resonated in her head as she turned off the lights and lay looking at the ceiling lit with the mellow light of the golden night lamp. The thought resonated in her head as she idly looked out at the busy street from the window of her bedroom. People were busy. They had some destination to reach, some work to do. She had neither.

She was not lovesick, but she was romantic. She found love in most things. She loved the birds, she loved black and white photographs, she loved a good cup of coffee with her friends and she loved walking- alone or with companions. She felt there had to be goodness in everything, and she found love in everything. She romanticized. He told her though, that life was not that simple. He told her that not all people were good and could be trusted at face value. Some people proceeded only with an ulterior motive. He tried to make her worldly wise. She had trusted him too and had inextricably intertwined her life with this practical person.

Why were the children being born? So that people would stop harassing her? So that people would stop doubting that she was infertile? A more pressing force was, she realized, it would make him stop mouthing all the blatant accusations, he uttered every time it was that time of the month which announced yet another failure for him. No. there was an even more strong force. It was her desire to live. There was no love in anything anymore. The surrounding was quiet as a graveyard, the weather was dry, the heat was scorching, and the friends were no longer there. The trust was betrayed. It had become a game of power play that she did not wish to be a part of. A purposeless life had driven her to end it. She had confessed it to him. He did not pay attention. She died. But somehow some power kept her alive. Some people had prayed, while others had ignored. The prayers proved stronger. People called it a miracle. He called her a selfish fool with erratic, unexplained behaviour. She died again. But this time no one saw. So no one came to save her. Yet in the rebirth of her body, she felt she had to live. She had to have someone for whom she could not afford to die.

And they had kept on making crude jokes. He kept on being frustrated. And then there was a solution. Tailor made, that would solve all the purpose. And the children were created with immaculate precision.

She felt a sudden surge of embarrassment. And here they are… haven’t seen the light of day, yet already fulfilling the selfish desire of the only person who is supposed to give them the perfect sanctum against the raging world outside.