A weekend union with an old friend, light breeze at the Blues & Beyond, one laptop for graphics and an amiable stranger…….
What DO you get when you put all these in a melting pot?
Answer: A close encounter with the Kanchendzonga.
Venue: Rinchenpong (Sikkim), with a dash of trek thrown in at Hilley and Barsey.
It was a balmy summer evening and I was supposed to meet my friend Sohini, for a discussion on our long awaited vacation. She’d meet me at the Lindsay and had informed that she’d be accompanied by a colleague of hers, who apparently is well versed on the lesser known vacation spots in India. Battling the indomitable Kolkata traffic I reached, 15 mins late to find the two pouring over a laptop. I was introduced to Anirban. We spent the evening hearing about his amazing trekking stories as the wind and the wine played wicked tricks on our mind and we kept oscillating between Himachal (our original plan), Leh, Uttarakhand and other probable destinations. The evening ended as expected with no concrete decision made. Our consultancy session had turned out futile. Anirban’s presence could not help us take any decision. Finally, as the charge slip was being signed, he made a parting comment which mentioned a short trek in Sikkim, which he had decided to undertake. The next 10 mins witnessed the finalization of a destination with amazing pace. In one month (including a pre trip dinner) all leaves were sanctioned and in no time we were congregated at the Sealdah- Sohini with her husband, Anirban and myself….off to a remote village called Kaluk (near Rinchenpong in Sikkim).
After a well spent overnight train journey, we reached the New Jalpaiguri station in the morning. And following a cursory meal we set of for Sikkim….hoping to reach our Hotel by noon, and simultaneously grab some breakfast in a wayside eatery. Sohini and Kalyan Da (her husband) had been in these parts a few months back and during that trip the girl had got particularly attached to a fur ball in some inconspicuous eatery on the way. We were ordered to find the same one (on our route) in the hope of some delightful rendezvous between the two. We did manage this feat and were soon settled on the chairs ordering Alu Paratha. The gestation period between the arrival of the pup or the Paratha (either reason for us to actually be present here) was becoming quite long, so Anirban and I decided to explore the vicinity, leaving the couple to their own devices.
The shack was situated on the bank of the dried Mahananda basin. A stony path led up to it. The road was gray, lain with round stones no doubt fished from the river itself. A quaint tree stood on one side. It had no leaves. Only yellow inflorescence embellished the tip of each branch. Anirban was curiously venturing around and I was taking snaps when both of us were startled by a bellow from the restaurant…..love dripping from it……”Taaaashi….Taaashi.......” . It echoed across the Sevoke railroad, visible at a distance. We decided that this was our “dramatic moment of fate”.
Our meeting with Taashi was hardly a very warm one. She had grown up and was accompanied by two other friends. Unfortunately she failed to share the same remembrance as Sohini, and we chewed through our hot Parathas with her growling at our feet.
We were soon back to the car winding our way through the Eastern Himalayas. Every curve offered us a milieu of breath taking views. There were spurs covered in lush green interlocking with others, which in stark contrast were brown, bereft of any trace of vegetation. The Teesta meandered through the curves like a blue stain ribbon, occasionally stirring up patches of white where its path met any rocky obstacle underneath. It was beautiful. The slopes were covered in vegetation which gave off a wonderful musty smell that makes one strangely reminiscent…strangely nostalgic of some unforgotten memory.
The drive to Kaluk is about 4 hours. We reached the quaint little village and proceeded towards our hotel, one of the series of three located in three consecutive steps cut on the mountain slope itself. Kaluk is a tiny village that comprised a market place which had a few shops with limited offerings, a couple of liquor shops, a school somewhere for, as we were to discover throughout our stay, there was an incessant flow of students who came and went from all directions. There was also a transport depot. The main attraction of this appealingly insignificant village was a monastery that was nestled in the upper slopes.
As our car had been snaking its way through the Bazaar, it had started to rain. We cursed our luck. The drizzle continued unabated all through the time that we actually had taken to settle down in our rooms. It had enmeshed the entire lodging in a gossamer blanket of fog. We ordered lunch and settled down in the anteroom with it, keeping the wooden window open to an absolutely translucent view. An air of despondency had settled in. It was right in this unexpected juncture that we actually watched God almighty at work!! The rain had stopped awhile before, and suddenly like the opening of an eye, the sky cleared as a patch. The clouds unveiled the scene beyond in a surreal situation that can be termed as an eye opener. The clouds slowly floated away..forming the shape of a human eye… and there it was Le Magnifique!! The Kanchendzonga. Through the opening we saw the golden-white peak emerging against a fading grey horizon. We were transfixed for several seconds, before reality struck us and the shutterbugs happily went clicking away. The majestic unveiling of the Kanchendzonga continued for a few minutes till it was fully revealed in its grand glory and splendor…
Recovering from the awe and duly rejuvenated we decided to make the trip to the Rinchenpong monastery, about 20mins drive away, so that we could make it back by sundown. I’ll skip the journey.
The walk to Rinchenpong monastery is lined with rows of fir and cypress, which eventually gives way to a golden yellow gateway. The area beyond this is lined with the typical Buddhist holy flags. It is a common belief that the air that passes through these holy flags becomes pure and holy by its touch, and one is blessed to breathe it. There was a wonderful feeling of bliss as the wind swished though the silk embroidered flags.
The monastery itself is a small wooden structure, devoid of any external embellishment. The upper storey is used as an eating room. The small children in their red and yellow robes were engaged in taking a meager meal of boiled rice up the stairs, and sinfully yet sweetly stealing a gulp or two on way to their destination!
The monastery had already closed, but we were allowed entry with special permission.
The inside of the little Monastery was dimly lit with oil lamps placed in front of the statue of the Lord Buddha. It was a unique one. It is one of the only 2 in the world that depicted the (Ati)Buddha in a carnal posture, embracing a delicate lady. There was a semicircular row of wooden benches all along the wall, with manuscripts neatly placed within the folds of red cloth, and tied with a single string. Presumably it was the school where the young monks were inducted. I stood there, in the dark room in front of the Lord. A peculiar halo from the sun, the last of its dying rays entered from the entrance and lit the statue. It looked uncannily beautiful. The Flames of the oil lamps flickered with the slightest trace of chilly wind that entered and touched everything on its way. I stood there, my palms folded, with a tranquil feeling that the Lord will listen to my prayers, here, if not anywhere else. I did not realize a young monk enter the shrine. He stood beside me and quietly asked me to vacate the premises. I was extremely content, satiated to the brim with my holy experience. As I came out I saw another group of tourists had come wandering and the monks were in a hurry to close the gates. It was a transfixing experience, I felt as if I had been in the presence of The Almighty.
We were generally quiet on our way back. The air too had become quite chilly. Once back in Kaluk bazaar, we decided to stock on a bit of “fuel” to keep us warm company through the nippy evening. We settled down to a great evening of chit-chats and debates, philosophical talks and leg pulling. That evening we tasted the Ghonde Vodka. We had decided that the trip would be futile if we didn’t try “everything indigenous”. However, the taste to the tongue was not a very pleasant one.
It was this night that I had two fantastic experiences.
Firstly, as we stepped outside,once during the evening to go to the reception, darkness fell like a huge black blanket with a widespread power cut. I stood still trying to steady my sense of direction. Not being able to figure anything out, I casually looked up, and the sight that greeted me was amazing. The dark velvety sky was literally littered with thousands and thousands of shimmering stars. It was as if someone had carelessly thrown in a bagful of diamonds on a black display tray. Maybe I shouln’t try any such comparisons as there are no adequate words in which I may humble the beauty of the scene. We moved to the edge of the compound, and I kept staring at the sky till Kalyan da had dutifully come searching for us and had found us safe and sound. Soon power was restored.
Post dinner, as the couple took some rest, I, duly guided by Anirban left the hotel compound and climbed downhill. We entered the last hotel in the series of the 3 steps. We sneaked into the campus and went to the farthest edge where there was a shaded area, more like a view point. As we walked into that, I looked out towards the horizon. Again my eyes met with a singularly spectacular sight. The entire spectrum that my vision could cover was glittering with the lights from the settlement across mountain on the other side of the valley. It was impossible to figure out where the human intervention ended and the Heavens began as all of it was shimmering before my eyes. It looked unreal. The only distinction being that the stars were silvery white and golden light came from the small settlements. We sat there for a long time in absolute silence, punctuated by short calls from some wild animal from the bushes bordering the campus walls. It was an enchanting experience.
We had made up our minds to watch the sunrise the next day, no matter what. Waking up at 5, I stepped outside on the green grass of the lawn freshly wet with the dew. The Himalaya looked grey against the pallor of the sky. Thankfully the sky was clear. Around 5.15 the peak started to be tinted and within the next 20 minutes it had undergone a wonderful change in the medley of colours ranging from pale rosy (as if coloured by a careless stroke of an artist’s brush), red and orange. A black bird flew against the magnificent backdrop heralding in morning. It was six, and the sun shone brightly warming our necks in a pleasant manner.
It was a big day for us. It was the day on which we were to go trekking. The actual purpose for us so have come this far. We drove to a place called Hilley from where we were to start our short trek to Barsey, a rhododendron sanctuary. Our driver informed that there was even a short way up to Hilley (comparable to a trek by itself) along the slopes of the mountain, which was used by the locals. Tempting as it may have been, we decided to refrain from the lesser trodden path. Our trek started at 11 in the morning. The road cut through the pristine Himalayan forest. It is the habitat of some of the rarest wildlife known to inhabit this part of the world- The Jaguar, the Black Bear and the elusive Red Panda. The slopes had a mixture of deciduous and coniferous trees. There was a range of laurel, bamboo, birch, alder, magnolia and the lovely rhododendron (not yet in bloom fully). The entire scene was tinged with green and wore a wet feeling from the transpiring vegetal giants. The trunks of these trees scaling 50 m or more were cased in moss that gave them a fascinating old look. The epiphytes and parasites seemed to share a symbiotic relationship with them over the ages. The nooks and crannies in the slopes were inhabited by small dark beetles or other multicolored winged creatures. The road which we traveled on was carpeted with the Guras that had fallen from the tree and made a lovely pink contrast to the otherwise green ambiance. As I walked along the sloping path, I wondered how this biome was placed on a delicate balance scale of nature. The wonderful life of the forest was shut out from the bustling humanity only a walk of 5 minutes away by a single large gate that formed the demarcation between God’s creation and our own. I shuddered with fear thinking of the consequence if we ever, desired to encroach in here for something more than fuelwood. Yet, the environment was strangely peaceful and motivating. Here and there some small bird would whistle past and fly into the dense vegetation of the valley below. The drone of the cricket was strangely soothing and familiar to the existence of the moment. The rippling sound of an unseen rivulet played music to the ears. Sometimes we could see a small stream coming down the slopes, crossing the road and continuing down the slope again. The place where it crossed the path was also of unique beauty; the crystal clear water traversed a broken area underlain with flat rocks smoothened by the passage of the water itself.
There were sudden flat lands where conifers grew in strands of perfect harmony. It was beautiful.
We trekked up to Barsey, which was a sudden clearing forming the flat summit of the highland. We spent an hour or so exploring the area and then trekked down along the same pristine path. I continuously prayed for one sight of the charming Red Panda (the original “Panda”, discovered much before the Chinese Panda), but as expected my wish was not granted. The short and lovely trek completed I realized with a tinge of melancholy that our tryst with Nature had come to an abrupt end.
The next day we lazed around, just drenching ourselves with the beauty of the Kanchendzonga which was still visible in all its sublime beauty. Even the residents of the hotel complimented our luck, as it kept company throughout our stay. We were happy, we were blessed. It rained again as we left for the station in the afternoon. It was like an uncanny completion of the circle, as we ended our journey and drove back to NJP.